Give Your Body Credit for the Weekend
A long weekend of climbing — whether that's two days on Peak District gritstone, a bouldering trip to the Lakes, or three sessions in a row at your local wall — feels brilliant at the time. Then Monday arrives, and your forearms feel like they've been used to tow a car, your fingertips are raw, and you're oddly exhausted despite having done nothing but climb and eat chips.
That's normal, and it's also the point at which a lot of climbers get it wrong. They either panic and hammer the fingerboard to "make up" for lost time, or they write off the whole week and sit on the sofa feeling guilty. The truth sits comfortably in the middle. Rest days matter every bit as much as training days, because the adaptation you're chasing — stronger tendons, better endurance, tougher skin — actually happens while you're recovering, not while you're trying hard.
Here's how to make the 48 to 72 hours after a big weekend count, so your next session feels sharp rather than rusty.
Rehydrate With More Than Just Water
Climbers are terrible at noticing how much fluid they lose. Winter sessions on grit are especially sneaky: you're cold, so you don't feel thirsty, but you're still sweating under a jacket and losing fluid through every breath of dry air. A long indoor session can easily cost you a litre and a half.
Plain water is a decent start, but after a heavy weekend you also want to replace the sodium, potassium and magnesium you've sweated out. Practical approach:
- Aim for around 500ml in the first hour after your last session, sipped rather than gulped.
- Add a pinch of salt and a squeeze of lemon to your water, or use an electrolyte tablet if you've been sweating heavily for two days straight.
- Check the colour of your urine — pale straw is the target. Dark amber means you're still behind.
- Don't forget that tea, coffee and milk all count towards fluid intake. A mug of tea on the drive home is genuinely useful.
Avoid going the other way, too. Necking three pints of water at once just sends you to the loo; steady sipping through the day works far better.
Eat to Rebuild, Not Just to Reward
There's nothing wrong with a well-earned pub meal, but try to think of your first proper meal after the trip as part of the training plan. Your muscles are crying out for protein to repair micro-damage and carbohydrate to top up glycogen that two days of effort has stripped.
- Protein: aim for roughly 1.6 to 2.2g per kilogram of body weight across the whole day, spread over three or four meals. Twenty to forty grams within a couple of hours of finishing is a sensible starting point — eggs, Greek yoghurt, chicken, tofu, a tin of tuna, or a decent shake if you can't face cooking.
- Carbohydrate: don't fear it. Rice, potatoes, oats, bread and fruit are what refill your tanks for the next session.
- Colour: fruit and veg contain the antioxidants and micronutrients that help manage inflammation. Aim for a couple of portions with each meal.
- Alcohol: a pint or two won't ruin you, but a heavy night genuinely slows muscle repair and wrecks your sleep quality. Keep the big session for a proper rest day.
Sleep Is Your Strongest Recovery Tool
If you only take one thing from this article, take this. Sleep is where growth hormone does its best work, where your nervous system resets, and where the finger tendons you've been stressing get their chance to remodel.
After a long weekend, try to get two nights of seven to nine hours. Go to bed half an hour earlier than usual rather than trying to "catch up" at the weekend. If you can, a twenty-minute nap in the afternoon is a legitimate recovery tool, not laziness. And cut caffeine after about 2pm for a couple of days — deep sleep matters more than the afternoon pick-me-up.
Move Gently, Move Often
A complete rest day doesn't have to mean total stillness. Gentle movement increases blood flow to sore tissue and helps shift the stiffness that sets in about 24 hours after a big effort.
- Go for a 30 to 45 minute walk, ideally somewhere green.
- Do ten minutes of easy shoulder, hip and wrist mobility — circles, cat-cow, gentle rotations.
- If you're at the wall, traverse the easiest ground you can find, or spend the session on quiet technique drills well below your limit. Keep it to half an hour and stop while it still feels easy.
- Avoid anything that loads the fingers hard. That means no fingerboard, no hangboard, no limit bouldering, no campus rungs.
Look After Skin, Fingers and Ego
Your skin is the most obviously battered part of you after a weekend, and it's worth ten minutes of attention. Wash your hands properly, let them dry, file down any flappers with a clean nail file or pumice, and moisturise generously. A climbing-specific salve works well, but a plain, unscented barrier cream is fine too. Avoid picking at splits — they take twice as long to heal if you keep pulling the edges off in the shower.
Finger tendons take longer than muscle to recover, which is why a hard weekend often shows up as niggly elbows, knuckles or shoulders on the Tuesday rather than the Monday. Keep an eye on anything that feels sharp rather than sore, and give it an extra few days before you push again.
Finally, be honest about your energy. If your third session risks injury for the sake of an arbitrary number, do the sensible thing — go home, eat something, and come back on Thursday ready to pull hard.


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